How to Pick the Perfect Suit - Tailored Suit Guide

Cum alegem costumul

Recently, a friend of mine returned from a vacation in Italy where she visited Milan. Not only the Dome of Milan impressed her but also the men from there. And not necessarily their handsomeness that attracted her attention, it was rather the way they dress. They are of absolute elegance. I confess that although I had the opportunity to travel quite a lot, I do not recall any destination where men would have caught my eye in such a way. I think I should visit Milan too :).

Details To Consider

Later edit:

Meanwhile, I also visited Milan and I confirm she was so right. If you would like to read my impression of the place you can find it here.

Table of Contents

Because in our urban landscape I saw all kinds of “hanging” suits on the carriers or whose seams “were about to burst”, I found the idea of an article about how to pick a suit useful.

The points we must consider when we are referring to the tailored jacket are:

√ the collar;

√ shoulders;

√ sleeves;

√ the length of the jacket;

√ the waistband.

The Suit Jacket

The collar of the jacket


As in the below figure (the blue jacket), it must perfectly overlap the collar of the shirt. Without appearing you are ready to be hung in a hanger and make any wrinkles. If the collar of the jacket is at some distance from the collar of the shirt, it means that the jacket is large.

Jacket Collar

The shoulder of the jacket


The shoulder of the jacket – should fall exactly on the line of your shoulders. The length of the shoulders should not be more or less than one centimetre from the point where your shoulder ends. Here is where I believe most men are wrong. And I would divide them into two categories: the young generation who buy their jackets two sizes smaller (giving the impression the jacket is about to crack on the shoulder area); and the “elder” generation whose jackets are two sizes larger. Creating visible disproportionality.

shoulder of the jacket

The jacket buttoning


Jacket buttoning – is another aspect that can compromise your entire suit and therefore appearance. Your jacket should close PERFECT! An overly tight jacket is shaped like an X and a too loose one will look like a bag.

jacket buttoning

The sleeves of the jacket


The sleeves of the jacket – here you have to be careful about their length and width! The sleeve of a jacket should end at the wrist and allow the shirt to continue another 2 centimetres over. Also, the sleeve of a jacket should not have width under the arm.

Suit Sleeve length

The jacket length


Your jacket should be long enough to cover your butt. If it is longer then it will visually take away a few centimetres out of your height and if it is shorter it will look unsightly.

Suit length

Trousers


When choosing a pair of trousers, we must be careful about their length and width, which sometimes depends on size or cut.

A loose crotch point has no place! The pants should be perfectly tailored, whilst allowing you to be easily in movement.

Trousers

The length of the trousers


The length of the trousers – is very important!!!

I want to point out a very important aspect: do not leave your socks in sight! Well-tailored trousers are slightly longer in the back, as they should reach the middle of the shoe heel. On the front side, the pant should only form a thin wrinkle.

length of the pants

The conclusion of the “How to pick the perfect suit” article, is the suit must fit you perfectly! You must feel comfortable in it without appearing shabby.

MARIA-DROB_Fashion Archivist

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